Friday 11 March 2011

February 25: The Vatican!


Sunrise over Trajen's Forum 

Vittorio Emanuele II Monument

Early Morning St. Peter's
Alarm went off at 6 and we were out the door by 6:35. Last night was better than the one before, thank goodness. Still sick, though. We walked to Trajen's Column to eat breakfast (a nutella sandwich) on the steps and watch the sunrise over Rome and the distant Colosseum. Got turned around somehow near the Vittorio Emanuele Memorial but figured out the right path and walked straight to the Vatican. Very pretty bridge crossing the river (Ponte Vittorio Emanule II) with nice statues and seagulls sitting on top of every statue. The Basilica is BEAUTIFUL! There was no one around when we got there at 7:45, so we were able to wander and take pictures basically alone. We then made our way to the museum entrance to stand in line for early entry (it opens at 9), which I am very glad we did, since the line was huge by the time it actually opened and we were 10th or so. We went straight to the Sistine Chapel before the crowd. I was pretty amazed at how huge the place is. I was actually surprised at the chapel's rectangular shape. I guess I'd always assumed it was roundish since I'd really only ever seen close-ups of the God-Adam scene. The place is absolutely huge and covered in paintings. Every inch shows different scenes from the Bible, by Michelangelo and other artists. No pictures were allowed, unfortunately. I really liked the scenes on the wall of Biblical moments, especially the one where Christ gives St. Peter the keys of Heaven with Constantine's Arch in the background. I was there yesterday. I'm glad we went early, because the place filled up quickly and got extremely crowded.


The line

Raphael's "Transfiguration"

Skyline of Rome from the Vatican

A vase I was once tested on

Raphael's "School of Athens"

We wandered through the museum's different halls for hours. That place is VAST. There's just so much to take in! I most remember the Egyptian area, the Etruscan jewellery, a black and red Greek pot I once studied in Art History and several statues that I had studied as well. I didn't know how big the place was, or that it displayed treasures amassed by Popes over centuries. Every room was covered with beautiful paintings on the walls and ceilings but the rooms were so full of objects that it was hard to remember to look up. There was just way too much to see. I got Erin and I St. Francis and St. George medals. I think it's kind of funny that our favorite saints are the patron of critters and the guy with his sword stuck in a dragon. We'll have to fight over who gets who later.


Michelangelo's "Pieta"

Then we went to St. Peter's Basilica. It's a really, really BIG church. The scale is just phenomenal. Inside are huge marble statues of Popes and other important figures and lots of beautiful marble and stone work. I loved all the marble doves that were everywhere in the walls with green sprigs in their mouths. I miss Maggie. Michelangelo's "Pieta" statue is incredible. The Baldacchino, a big black and gold twisty canopy where the Pope says Mass is very impressive. It was fun to see St. Peter's grave, especially since recent excavations have discovered and actual early Christian burial there, so maybe there's truth to the legends after all? We touched bronze St. Peter's worn feet for indulgence. We spent some time in a side chapel, just sitting. There were nuns everywhere, all seeming to be from different countries and different orders. I loved the gold stained glass window with a dove. Every church should have something that pretty! I could have spent days just looking around the church.
The Baldacchino, with the amber-colored dove window behind

Not a great picture, but it shows how big the church is


Gelato!

Just as we were leaving and wondering what to do next, we heard our names and behind us were two good friends from London, Mandy and Leigh! So nice to see them where we least expected to! The four of us went to get gelato at a place recommended by a London friend who had studied in Rome, the "Fridgidarium," where we all got two flavors dipped in chocolate. I got the "cookies" (on our friend's recommendation) and "chocolate chip" and wow. It was SO amazing! Honestly the best gelato ever. The chocolate chip was creamy and delicious with good dark chocolate and the cookie flavor was perfect and sweet with a real cookie stuck on top. We ate it on the steps of Piazza Chiesa Nuova in the beautiful warm sunshine. Then we walked through the super-touristy Piazza Navona to the Pantheon. The Pantheon was impressive, a big domed building with a hole in the roof. It was crawling with tourists but still fun to see in person. Then we headed to some piazzas in Leigh's detailed guide book, just for fun. We went to Palazzo Monte Citorio, where the Parliament meets and saw the big obelisk out front (Rome is full of ancient Egyptian obelisks re-outfitted as Christian monuments with saints or Jesus up top. I don't know why they think they're fooling anyone) and then the Marcus Aurelius Column which was modeled after Trajen's and displayed much more dramatically. Then we split up, hoping to meet back up somewhere in Florence. Amanda and I went home via the Spanish Steps, dodging the huge crowds. There must have been some Carnivale celebrations earlier, because there was confetti everywhere in the streets. We stopped at the same little dive as last night and got take-away lasagna, served warmed up in tinfoil pans. It was very cheesy and good. New roommates tonight, a Texan teaching English in Barcelona and a girl from Singapore just starting a 41-day European adventure. They seem really nice. Hopefully they don't snore! Going to be early to get up for Mass tomorrow morning at Santa Maria Maggiore.


Me and Amanda outside the Pantheon

Pigeon on a fountain outside the Pantheon

Crowds at the Spanish Steps in the afternoon

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